Chicken Sugo: Adriatico – Paola Bacchia

Adriatico_cover

From Adriatico: Stories and recipes from Italy’s Adriatic Coast by Paola Bacchia

(Smith Street Books, September 2018 – AU$ 55, NZ$ 65)

 

Chicken sugo

Sugo di gallina

 Chicken sugo

SERVES 4–6

1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large brown onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz) chicken (preferably a whole broiler), washed, patted dry and cut into 12 pieces

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

½-1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

sea salt

2 small rosemary sprigs

125 ml (4 fl oz/ ½ cup) dry white wine

2 tablespoons tomato paste

80 ml (2 ½ fl oz/1∕3 cup) boiling water

grated parmesan, to serve

 

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over low heat, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20–30 minutes until soft and starting to fall apart (don’t let it brown), then add the garlic and cook until fragrant.

 

Meanwhile, place the chicken pieces in a bowl and toss with the paprika, pepper and about 1 teaspoon of salt. Rub the spices into the chicken pieces. Add the chicken pieces to the onion mixture, increase the heat to medium and cook for a few minutes until browned. Flip them over and cook for a few more minutes until nicely browned all over. Add the rosemary and half the wine and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine has evaporated. Add the remaining wine and cook for another 10 minutes or until the wine has evaporated again.

 

Dissolve the tomato paste in the boiling water, add to the pan and stir to combine. Cover and simmer for 1½ hours (or 1 hour if you are using thighs and drumsticks), stirring regularly. The chicken should release quite a bit of liquid, especially if you are using thighs and drumsticks, but feel free to add a bit more water if it looks dry. Taste the sauce and add salt if needed.

 

The sugo is ready when the meat is tender and falling off the bones. Remove any smaller bones from the chicken pieces (especially if you are using a chopped whole chicken), then serve topped with grated parmesan.

 

Authors note:

Plump breasts and meaty thighs are what we have come to expect when we eat chicken, but there is much to be said for cooking with an older chook – the ones sometimes called broilers, which have passed their egg-laying prime and are lean and flavoursome from running around the barnyard. I would buy this type of chicken from the Slovenian butcher at the market in Trieste. He’d bring the chickens down from the Carso, and sell them whole or halved, chopped into pieces if you like. They only had a small amount of meat but it was deliciously tender when cooked at length, the skin and bones packing a tasty punch in a broth or a sugo.

Sugo di gallina does not traditionally have a lot of meat in it, and what is there is so tender it’s barely hanging onto the bone. If you can’t find a lean broiler chicken, use a combination of chicken thighs and drumsticks, bones intact. If you do this you may need to reduce the cooking time by 20–30 minutes so the meat does not dry out. This is best served with your favourite pasta or gnocchi, finished with a good sprinkling of parmesan.

The Best Monday Night Meal in a Long Time

Do you know that feeling when you can’t really be bothered to cook? When takeaways don’t appeal (or are not readily available) and you just want something really quick, simple and yet full of flavour? Try Thai Chicken Stir Fry with Cashews and Chilli Jam Sauce from My Asian Kitchen by Jennifer Joyce.

This one is a winner! You can prep the sauce and veggies whilst you defrost the chicken in the microwave ( if, like me, you have only just decided what you want to cook for dinner 15 minutes before dinner time). The recipe states preparation time 10 minutes – correct. Cooking time 10 minutes – correct. Flavour – incredible!

 

California ‘Fried’ Chicken Sandwich – Gordon Ramsay’s Ultimate Fit Food

Ultimate Fit Food

Gordon Ramsay’s Ultimate Fit Food ($39.99), published by Hachette Australia.

Photographer Jamie Orlando Smith

 

 

California ‘fried’ chicken sandwich

SERVES 4

As a family with four teenage children, we are always looking for healthy ways of preparing not-so-healthy fast food favourites like pizza, burgers and fried chicken. This recipe is brilliant because it looks and tastes like a fried chicken sandwich, with the satisfying crunch from the chicken and the creaminess of the mayo, but is actually made with baked chicken and a yoghurt dressing. The kids love it, we know they’re eating well and everyone’s happy.” p. 224

50g wholemeal flour
200ml buttermilk (or 2 eggs, beaten)
150g puffed rice
2 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp onion powder or granules
4 tsp paprika
1 tsp dried sage
8 mini chicken breast fillets
4 wholemeal buns
1 ripe avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced
½ iceberg lettuce, shredded
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Mexican hot sauce such as Cholula (optional), to serve

FOR THE YOGHURT DRESSING

75ml Greek yoghurt
½ garlic clove, crushed
1 tsp cider vinegar

California "fried" chicken sandwich

 

  1. Preheat the oven to 180˚C/gas 4.
  2. Put the flour, buttermilk and puffed rice into three shallow bowls. Season the flour with salt and pepper. Add the garlic powder, onion powder, paprika and dried sage to the buttermilk and mix well. Crush the puffed rice with your hands so that the pieces are broken down slightly but not powdered.
  3. Dip a piece of chicken into the flour so that it is completely covered. Remove and shake off any excess, then dip into the buttermilk. Allow any excess buttermilk to drip off, then put the chicken pieces into the puffed rice. Turn over to make sure they are completely coated, then place on a baking tray. Repeat with the remaining chicken pieces.
  4. Put the tray into the preheated oven and bake for 25–30 minutes, until golden and cooked through, turning halfway through cooking.
  5. Meanwhile, make the yoghurt dressing; mix together the yoghurt, crushed garlic and vinegar with a little salt and pepper. Taste and add more vinegar if needed.
  6. Slice open the buns and divide the avocado slices between them. Top with shredded iceberg lettuce.
  7. Once the chicken is cooked, place on top of the lettuce and spoon over dollops of the yoghurt dressing, as well as a drizzle of hot sauce, if desired. Close the buns and serve immediately.

PER SERVING

KCAL 510

FAT (g) 13.0

SATURATES (g) 4.0

CARBS (g) 67.0

SUGARS (g) 10.0

FIBRE (g) 8.0

PROTEIN (g) 27.0

SALT (g) 1.30

 

 

Lemon Chicken with Golden Onions and Green Olives: The Good Carbs Cook Book -Dr Alan Barclay, Kate McGhie & Philippa Sandall

Good Carbs Cookbook

 

Images and recipes from The Good Carbs Cookbook by Dr. Alan Barclay, Kate McGhie & Philippa Sandall Murdoch Books RRP $$39.99 Photography by Alan Benson

 

Lemon Chicken with Golden Onions and Green Olives

“With a nod to an unctuous Moroccan tagine, the spice mix is mild and the turmeric produces a gorgeous golden colour in the onions when the chicken is cooked. Ground ginger withstands higher cooking temperatures than fresh ginger, without changing its flavour.” p.56

 

Lemon Chicken Cooked In A Spice Paste With-Golden Onions And Green Olives

PREPARATION TIME: 25 minutes | COOKING TIME: 1 hour | SERVES: 6

3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground chilli
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 handful coriander (cilantro) leaves and stems, chopped, plus extra, finely chopped, to garnish
1 handful parsley, chopped
¼ cup (60 ml/2 fl oz) lemon juice
½ cup (125 ml/4 fl oz) olive oil
4 skinless bone-in chicken thighs
4 skinless bone-in chicken drumsticks
5 medium onions, thinly sliced
sea salt flakes
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 lemon, thinly sliced
1 cup (250 ml/9 fl oz) water
1 cup (180 g/6½ oz) pitted green olives

 

Combine the garlic, cumin, chilli, turmeric, pepper, coriander, parsley, lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss until evenly coated in the spice paste. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 4 hours.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in a large sturdy heatproof pan over medium–high heat. Working in batches, add the chicken pieces and fry for about 10 minutes, turning once until golden brown on both sides. Transfer the chicken to a plate and cover loosely with foil to keep warm.

Put the onions in the pan with the remaining oil and add salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften.

Return the chicken to the pan with the ginger, lemon and water. Bring to a lively simmer and then reduce the heat to medium–low and cook, covered, for about 40 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Test by piercing the meat near the bone with a fine skewer and if the juices run clear, the chicken is cooked.

Remove from the heat and scatter with the olives and extra coriander.

Lovely served with couscous or brown rice.

 

Rosemary and Thyme Chicken Stew: Fast Your Way To Wellness – Lee Holmes

Fast Your Way To WellnessRecipes and Images from Fast Your Way to Wellness by Lee Holmes (Murdoch Books).

Rosemary and Thyme Chicken Stew

“If you’re really pressed for time in the evenings, throw all the ingredients in your slow-cooker in the morning and come home to a scrumptious dinner.” p. 228

 

rosemary-and-thyme-chicken

 

Serves 4

267 calories per serve (1118kJ)

 

145 g (5 oz/2 large) carrots, halved lengthways and sliced

4 small red onions (optional), peeled and quartered

2 leeks, white part only, sliced

2 lemons, quartered

2 garlic cloves

370 g (13 oz/about 2) skinless chicken thighs, halved

625 ml (211/2  fl oz/21/2  cups) chicken stock

400 g (14 oz) tinned diced tomatoes

2 bay leaves

a few thyme sprigs

a few rosemary sprigs

drizzle of apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar-free wholegrain mustard

Celtic sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

 

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).

Put the carrots, onions (if using), leeks, lemons and garlic in a large roasting tin. Rest the chicken thighs on top of the vegetables, then pour in the stock and tomatoes and top with the herbs. Drizzle in the apple cider vinegar, then bake for 35–40 minutes, until the vegetables and chicken are cooked through.

Remove the chicken and vegetables from the pan and keep warm. Discard the bay leaf (and perhaps the lemon quarters if you prefer) and transfer the juices to a saucepan. Bring the juices to the boil, then add the mustard and boil for 5 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper.

Pour the sauce over the chicken and vegetables, then serve.

Tonga Chili Lime Chicken: Spice Health Heroes – Natasha MacAller

 

spice-health-heroes

‘Images and recipes from Spice Health Heroes by Natasha MacAller (Murdoch Books). Photography by Manja Wachsmuth. RRP $49.99’

MUSTARD, GINGER, GARLIC, CARDAMOM

TONGA CHILI-LIME CHICKEN

 

‘Created at a Tongan vanilla plantation using ingredients available on the plantation, including passion fruit, freshly juiced limes, fresh ginger and vanilla, which I made into a mustard, this dish easily adapts for parties by substituting the thighs and drumsticks with the same amount of chicken wings.’  p.158-159

.

SERVES 6

750g (1lb. 10oz.) chicken thighs and/or drumsticks, bone in, skin on

1 small handful coriander (cilantro) leaves, for garnishing

 

For the marinade:

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tbsp freshly grated ginger

1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted

½ tsp cardamom seeds, toasted

240ml (1 cup) grapeseed or vegetable oil

60ml (¼ cup) lime juice

½ medium onion (100g/3½oz.), chopped

120ml (½ cup) passion fruit juice (or fresh pineapple juice), or 4 passion fruit, pulped and seeded

1 tbsp coconut or brown sugar

¼ tsp salt

120ml (½ cup) seasoned rice wine vinegar

2 tsp Dijon mustard, or Vanilla Honey Mustard (see page 164) large pinch nutmeg

30g (1oz./½ cup) fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves, chopped

2 fresh red chilies, thinly sliced

 

Cut any excess fat off the chicken pieces and discard, then transfer the chicken to a medium-sized bowl or casserole dish.

Using a mortar and pestle, grind the garlic, ginger and coriander and cardamom seeds to make a paste. Transfer this paste to a food processor (or use a stick blender), add all the remaining marinade ingredients except the chilies, and whizz until smooth. Stir in the sliced chilies then pour the marinade over the chicken to coat. Cover the dish, or put everything into a zip-sealing bag, and chill for 2–8 hours.

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4).

 

Drain the chicken from the marinade and set aside. Bake the chicken pieces for 25 minutes, or until juices run clear. Remove from the oven, transfer onto a serving plate, cover and let rest for 10 minutes.

To serve, reduce the leftover marinade and drizzle it over the chicken, then scatter the coriander (cilantro) leaves, and the chilies from the reduced marinade over all and serve immediately.

Recipes and food prep by Natasha MacAller. Props by Lianne Whorwood @ The Propsdepartment. Food styling by Manja Wachsmuth

Recipes and food prep by Natasha MacAller. Props by Lianne Whorwood @ The Propsdepartment. Food styling by Manja Wachsmuth

Fragrant Poached Chicken, Salted Daikon,Smoked Eggplant Cream, Sashimi Sea Scallops, Ginger Scented Milk Curd, Virgin Black Sesame : Organum – Peter Gilmore

organum_cover

Images and recipes from Organum by Peter Gilmore (Murdoch Books) $59.99

Fragrant poached chicken, salted daikon, smoked eggplant cream, sashimi sea scallops, ginger-scented milk curd, virgin black sesame.

SERVES / 8

 

“This is one of my most sensual and pure plays on texture. The yielding, fragrant masterstock chicken against the smoky, silky eggplant cream, contrasted with salted daikon and slippery sashimi sea scallops, has great interplay. For me, the perfume of this dish is what makes it so elegant: the ginger-infused milk curd and the intoxicating aroma of the Korean cold-pressed virgin black sesame oil.” (p.248)

 

01

Fragrant poached chicken 

3 litres (105 fl oz) chicken stock
(see Basic Recipes)

300 ml (10½ fl oz) dark soy sauce

300 ml (10½ fl oz) shaoxing rice wine (Chinese rice wine)

300 g (10½ oz) yellow rock sugar

7 star anise

4 pieces cassia bark, 10 cm (4 inches) long

1 bunch Asian spring onions
(white part only)

50 g (1¾ oz) ginger, thinly sliced

30 g (1 oz) garlic, sliced

1 orange, peel zested

1.6 kg (3 lb 8 oz) free-range chicken

 

Put all of the ingredients except the chicken into a 7 litre (245 fl oz) stockpot with a tight-fitting lid, bring to the boil and simmer on high for 10 minutes without the lid. Strain the liquid into another stockpot, discarding the solids. Bring the liquid back to a full boil then put the whole chicken—breast side down—into the pot. Immediately put the lid on the pot and turn off the heat. Remove from the heat and allow to stand for exactly 1 hour. Remove the chicken from the liquid and place on a draining tray. Refrigerate for at least 45 minutes or until required.

Note: with this cooking method the chicken flesh will appear slightly pink, but it will be cooked through. The flesh should give between your fingers: if it doesn’t, you will need to cook it a little longer.

 

02

Smoked oil  

500 ml (17 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

1 small garlic clove

100 g (3½ oz) whole smoked eel, cut into 1 cm (3/8 inch) thick pieces

25 g (1 oz) flaked bonito

 

Put all ingredients into a cryovac bag and seal. Cook in a water circulator at 50°C (120°F) for 30 minutes. Allow the oil to cool for 10 minutes. Open the bag and strain the ingredients through an oil filter bag or layered muslin (cheesecloth). Discard the solids and reserve the oil.

 

03

Smoked eggplant cream

500 ml (17 fl oz) smoked oil

1/4 lemon, juice

1 garlic clove, finely sliced

2 small, firm, super-fresh eggplants (aubergines)

sea salt

 

Put the smoked oil, lemon juice and garlic into a large cryovac bag. Sit the bag inside a container with the ends folded over to allow easy access to the oil. Peel the eggplants one at a time and immediately dice into 2 cm (3/4 inch) square cubes. Put the eggplant cubes straight into the oil before they have a chance to oxidise. Repeat until all the eggplant has been used. When choosing the eggplant, freshness is imperative so that the seeds are very small and have not turned black inside the eggplant. If you cannot find super-fresh eggplants avoid using the more seeded parts of the eggplants. In this case you may need three or more eggplants. All these steps are important to keep the eggplant white.

When the eggplant is submerged in the oil, seal the bag then steam in a water circulator at 95°C (195°F) for 40 minutes until the eggplant is soft. Strain the eggplant away from the oil and process the eggplant in a blender. You may need to add a little of the cooking oil to obtain a smooth consistency. Pass through a fine drum sieve. Season and allow to cool.

 

04

Egg white pearls

4 egg whites

1 litre (35 fl oz) grapeseed oil

 

Strain the egg whites through a medium sieve and discard any material that does not come through the sieve with gentle pressure. Heat the grapeseed oil in a large heavy-based saucepan to 50°C (120°F). Put the strained egg white into a medium-size hypodermic syringe with a 0.5 mm (25 gauge) needle. In one slow but direct motion squeeze the egg white through the syringe into the hot oil. The eggwhite will form very small pearls. Allow to set for 1 minute then, using a rubber spatula, release the pearls from the bottom of the pan in a smooth motion. Allow another 30 seconds of setting, then strain the oil and the egg whites through a fine sieve. Place the egg white pearls on a tray lined with silicone paper. Reserve the oil and repeat the process until you have about 1 tablespoon of pearls (enough for 8 flowers).

 

05

Scallop pearl flowers 

1 sea scallop

1 tablespoon white soy sauce

1 tablespoon crème fraîche

1/2 daikon

 

Finely dice the sea scallops to 3 mm (1/8 inch). Dress the scallops in the white soy sauce and place on paper towel to dry.

Whip the crème fraîche to firm peaks.
Lay some plastic wrap on the bench and cut it into 10 cm (4 inch) squares. Place a plastic wrap square over a shot glass then put a small dot (1/8 teaspoon) of crème fraîche in the centre. Next put 1/8 teaspoon of diced scallop on top. Gathering the plastic wrap corners together, squeeze the scallops and crème fraîche to form a tight ball. Twist the plastic tightly and place each ball in the refrigerator to set for 30 minutes (or 5 minutes in a blast freezer). Repeat the process until you have 8 balls. Using the same method with plastic wrap and shot glasses, place 1/2 teaspoon of egg white pearls in the centre of each piece
of plastic. Spread out the egg white pearls to form a single layer roughly the size of an Australian 50-cent piece (about 3 cm or 1¼ inch diameter). Carefully unwrap the scallop and crème fraîche balls and place a ball in the middle of the egg white pearls. Gather up the corners of the plastic to form a pearl. Allow these pearls to set in the refrigerator until required.

Fold some sturdy aluminium foil into a long, V-shaped rest and sit it fold down in some rice to keep it steady, with the wider
part of the V upright. This will act as a rack
to hold your scallop pearl flowers in shape. Use a 2 cm (3/4 inch) diameter round cutter to stamp out a cylinder from the daikon. Use a Japanese mandolin to slice the cylinders into 1 mm (1/32 inch) thin discs. You need 56 discs
(7 discs for each of 8 flowers). Blanch these discs in boiling water for 10 seconds and refresh in iced water. Drain and pat the discs dry. Overlap 7 discs in a circular pattern—they will gradually form a point—making a small cone shape. Place these cones in the foil rest and set aside in the refrigerator until required.

 

06

Fragrant oil

100 ml (3½ fl oz) extra virgin Korean black sesame oil

50 ml (1¾ fl oz) extra virgin Korean white sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon jasmine tea

15 g (1/2 oz) ginger, thinly sliced

15 g (1/2 oz) long green spring onions,
white part only, thinly sliced

 

Put all of the ingredients into a cryovac bag. Heat in a water circulator to 40°C (105°F) for 30 minutes. Allow to cool. Strain and discard the solids.

 

07

Ginger milk curds 

45 g (1½ oz) ginger, thinly sliced

500 ml (17 fl oz) milk

sea salt

25 ml (1 fl oz) vegetable rennet

25 ml (1 fl oz) still mineral water

 

Put the ginger and milk in a saucepan and bring to 70°C (160°F) then remove from the heat. Allow to infuse for 30 minutes then strain and discard the solids. Season with salt.

Just before serving, make the ginger curds two at a time in eight ramekins with a capacity of 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) each. Warm 100 ml (3½ fl oz) of the ginger-infused milk to 35°C (95°F). Mix the vegetable rennet and mineral water together. Put 2 ml (1/16 fl oz) of the rennet mixture into a syringe, swirl the milk around in the saucepan and shoot the rennet into the warm milk. Working very quickly, fill two ramekins. Repeat this process three more times until all eight ramekins are filled.
Allow to set, which will take about 2 minutes.

 

08

TO FINISH

sea salt

10 large sea scallops, finely sliced into 1 mm (1/32 inch) thin discs

50 ml (1¾ fl oz) white soy sauce

12 salted daikon twists
(see basic recipes)

 

Remove the chicken breast meat from the frame and shred the meat with your fingers. In a bowl, dress the chicken liberally with the fragrant oil and season with salt.

Dress the sliced scallops with the white soy sauce and a little of the fragrant oil.
Dress the daikon twists with the fragrant oil.

 

09

TO PLATE

30 pea flowers

48 wasabi flowers

 

Place a generous spoonful of smoked eggplant cream in the centre of each plate. Spread out with the back of the spoon. Start layering the chicken breast, sea scallops and daikon twists. Make a space for the scallop pearl flower. Place the flower petal cone in first, then unwrap the scallop pearl and place the pearl in the centre of the cone the right way up. Using a dessertspoon, scoop half of the ginger milk curd carefully onto the salad. Dress with a little more fragrant oil then scatter the pea flower petals and wasabi flowers over the top. Serve.Poached Chicken